The "Wire we Here?" Blog and Forum
A place for speaker cable discussions.
I've had questions on the dual bi-wire system as far as "economy". What we can suggest based on the actual measurements, is that you really need the parallel cable in the LOW-END to drop the cable impedance closer to the load. See the bi-wire paper graphs that illustrate this. Lower frequency impedance RISES much faster as the cable reactance (phase shift increases) goes UP. The UPPER FREQUENCY are already much lower in impedance where the PHASE stays much lower, and use the more expensive sereis II cable to further mitigate the Vp non linearity in cable in the higher frequency where it is the opposite, worse in the treble than the bass. Stuff in audio cables always seems to be pushing one problem and pulling the other.
We can save costs by using the series I in parallel for the bass that offers the bigger improvement. The upper frequency series II in parallel can be managed with a SINGLE series II cable with far less impact on the improvement because the impedance is flatter. Yes, it is even flatter with the parallel series II but to save costs, do the parallel series I to the bass first for sure. The upper frequency series II parallel can be added later. The bi-wire paper explains all this in gory detail with true measurements across several cable types. Nothing escapes the physics.
Best,
Galen
Hoping that this is the right place for a speaker cable question. (But it appears as it not)
I am running a pair of monoblock amps, and the zip cord I am using was cut a bit long at ~1M (40”).These cable are bi-wired to the speaker.The amps allow for bi-amp with a L/R channel to each side of the speaker, or to be run as bridged.I have set them up as bridged.
I see that the speaker cables can be ordered at a minimum of 3’ in length.I think I might be able to get down to 2’ with the amps on the floor, but currently they are on a table, so it is about a 2’ drop down to the speaker.
I am not sure if keeping the capacitance low is all that important when the length is headed towards zero.So I am looking for some recommendations.
Most of my cables are DIY Mogami star-quad with Neutrik for the XLRs, and for RCAs using the same Star-Quad with Nuetrik Pro-Fi RCAs.A lot of this is have the system running and make sure that the length is long enough, but not emulating a snake festival at the back.
The system in a combined 2-channel and 5 channel HT in a small->medium sized living room.But focusing on the speaker cables at the moment.
This blog seems to be suggesting that I just run a better cable to the high frequency side of the speaker inputs?
@holmz
First, I hope you forgive the late response. I check the forum daily and somehow missed your post. It's ideal to keep your speaker cables short and when necessary use longer interconnects where the output components are a ways from the amplifiers. Most speakers with 2 or more sets of binding post typically roll the bass portion of the audio band to the bottom at +/- 120 Hz, while many go even lower. For the bass section we recommend Iconoclast Series 1 in TPC copper. There is just no reason to spend more money for the bass section. Our best cable for the mid/high binding post will be a Series II cable. If the budget allows, the SPTPC is our flagship speaker cable while the TPC is the same 24-twisted/bonded pair design and represents an incredible value.
Belden, Canare, Mogami and others offer stranded star-quad speaker cables in various AWG sizes. None of them even "comes close" to the electrical and sound quality performance of the Iconoclast design. They are all as you state a "zip-cord" design. The Iconoclast speaker cable assemblies are far less flexible than zip cord. The bonded pair design has a 8" minimum bend radius to avoid kinking the cable. The measured distance between the 2-parallel sides when the cable is shaped into a U-turn should not exceed 8". If your bend is only an L-shape then the bend would only be half or 4". I hope that makes sense.
If you are coming off of a table then you are not doing a U-turn. Thought should be given to the connectors used to help minimize any bending necessary to make connections. Options include locking banana plugs and 3-sizes of rhodium plated copper spades (5.2mm, 7mm and 9.2mm) measured by the distance between the forks of the spades.
While it's possible to order less than 3' cables, they are then considered "custom" and are not returnable. We have very little demand for really short speaker cables. We also offer "jumpers" in sizes up to 20" in length where the outermost jacket of the cable is removed to assist with the bend that might be necessary.
Iconoclast designer and engineer Galen will respond to the more technical benefit of using short length speaker cables and where short is short enough. Looks like we've all missed your post and questions. Thanks so much for your patience.
Bob
@holmz - I recommend 48" shortest for mono amps. Too short and life gets ugly fast with stiffer cables. Twice the length is four times more flexible! I use T+A M40 HV mono blocks in dual bi-wire, and use 48" wire pairs top and bottom. Very easy to manage. Plus, it allows some wiggle room later on if necessary.
Amplifiers are more prone to INDUCTANCE issues than capacitance, too. Usually, an inductive value is placed into the circuit to offset the capacitance. Too little added inductance doesn't offset the capacitance enough, buy yes, more capacitance isn't desired either. Zobel networks use this principal to try to offset the reactance the amplifier sees. Some speakers have this offset built-in to an estimated value based on "typical" speaker cable loads (one's that aren't extremely high or low L and C, which some are). Amplifier's can also add some inductance at the output terminalas.